American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Shark's Nose North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Shark’s Nose, North Face. The north face of Shark’s Nose, immediately above the notch adjacent to Overhanging Tower, offers a direct ascent of about 600 feet. Though it has been used for descent, the face had never been scaled prior to this summer. After descending from the summit the day of our southwest face climb, Chouinard, Weeks and I climbed a difficult lead directly above the notch, then left a hanging rope. The following day we continued a lead on mixed fifth and sixth class, then one of fifth class, only to be literally blasted and rained off the face. We retreated with quick rappels, leaving ropes in place. With better luck the next morning we prusiked back to the high point and finished the climb on a fine, difficult lead by Chouinard, which involved some very thin face climbing and an awkward jam-crack. One bolt for aid and a wooden block was used among the usual selection of pitons. Chrome-alloy knife-blade pitons made a number of sections possible that could not have been done otherwise.

Fred Beckey

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