American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Grand Teton, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Grand Teton, North Ridge. On July 31, Jake Breitenbach, Leon Sinclair, Irene Ortenburger, and Leigh Ortenburger made the first direct approach of the north shoulder of the Grand Teton from Valhalla Canyon. Although the rock was a trifle loose in places, only one or two short spots required the use of rope for protection, and so it can easily be seen that the difficulties are much less than the usual approach from Amphitheater Lake. Even more significant is the short time, 2¼ hours, required to reach the top of the shoulder from camp. In addition the rockfall danger seems to be less. This discovery, combined with the new traverse from the Lower Saddle to Valhalla, would seem to make entirely feasible the ascent of the North Ridge from the Lower Saddle. The route consists essentially in following the first shelf of the northwest side of the Grand Teton out to its culmination, the north shoulder.

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