American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Middle Teton, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Middle Teton, North Face. To the east of the northwest chimney route, first climbed in 1955 by Goodrich and Reppy, is another similar chimney less attractive than the first and separated from it by a smooth face. From the Lower Saddle on July 30, Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen ascended the glacier to the bottom of this chimney and then followed cracks and blocks for about 500 feet of moderate climbing to the ledge at the beginning of the final 300-foot face. A vertical crack 25 feet to the right of the chimney (which on close examination was even more unattractive) provided easy direct-aid work for one rope-length. The final pitch diagonals steeply upward to the right, passing the final overhangs on the right and involving extremely difficult free climbing, but no direct aid. From there a scramble led to the summit, which was reached at five p.m. after a start at 12 noon.

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