American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Washington—Cascades, Mount Ranier, Success Finger

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Mount Rainier, Success Finger. This new route was climbed on July 17 by Dick Wahlstrom and George Senner, who started from the Tahoma Creek campground at 3000 feet and followed the trail to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground and Pyramid Park. The Pyramid Glacier was followed to its head at 9000 feet where a small rock ridge was crossed to the Success Glacier. A northeast upward traverse was made to its head where a schrund was crossed at 10,600 feet, and a broad tapering snow finger followed to a short steep ridge where a camp spot was levelled out at 11,500 feet. This finger is the most easterly of three main fingers rising above the Success Glacier. Above 12,500 feet the route zig-zagged around rotten rock outcrops on short, steep snow fingers, and then contoured eastward with views down the wall above the Kautz Glacier. At 13,800 feet the Success Cleaver was gained and followed to Point Success, then across to the summit. The descent was made by the same route. This route, as well as the Success and Kautz Cleaver routes, are better ascended in the middle of the Rainier climbing season. Earlier in the year there is avalanche potential on the upper slopes, while later in the summer one encounters long, tiring pumice stretches lower down. Because of rock conditions and confinement to chutes it would not be recommended that large parties use this route. More time is required to Base Camp than on most other summit routes of Rainier.

George Senner

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