American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

North America, United States, Washington—Cascades, Mixup, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Mixup, East Face. On September 11 Larry Baum and I made a new route on this face, beginning up the second large chimney north of Gunsight Pass. This chimney, which might also be called a gully, runs in a north-northwesterly direction from its base at the edge of the glacier and appears from a distance to lead to the summit. After we had rappelled into the bergschrund, an easy scramble on loose rocks straight up the chimney brought us to our first major obstacle, a barrier of chockstones. A short fifth and sixth class pitch on the right wall of the chimney took us above the obstacle and returned us to the chimney. From here we climbed another fifth class rope length out of the chimney and onto the ridge to our right in order to pass more chockstones. Once past this second barrier, we continued up the chimney, now definitely a gully, until we were sure that it was leading us north of the summit. We left the gully and angled up to the left over easy rock towards the summit. We met the regular route about 50 feet below the top and climbed to the narrow notch just to its north and then to the summit.

Dan Davis, Seattle Mountaineers

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.