American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

North America, United States, Alaska, Institute Peak, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Institute Peak, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle). One weekend, the last part of February, Chuck Deehr, Moonok Sunwoo, George Oetzel and I left Fairbanks with the temperatures at about -30°. When we arrived at the Rainbow Ridge emergency shelter the temperature was + 20°. A day of packing brought us around the south end of Rainbow Ridge to a glacier below Institute Peak (8000 feet). On Sunday, although George was sick and unable to climb, the three of us climbed the peak by the direct south route for a second ascent. When we returned to camp, George was able to pack out and so we walked out that night arriving at the car at about 10 p.m. Such a climb as this in the Alaska winter demonstrates that climbing need not be confined to the summer months.

Gene Wescott

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.