American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Institute Peak, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Institute Peak, Alaska Range, (Mount Hayes B-3 Quadrangle). One weekend, the last part of February, Chuck Deehr, Moonok Sunwoo, George Oetzel and I left Fairbanks with the temperatures at about -30°. When we arrived at the Rainbow Ridge emergency shelter the temperature was + 20°. A day of packing brought us around the south end of Rainbow Ridge to a glacier below Institute Peak (8000 feet). On Sunday, although George was sick and unable to climb, the three of us climbed the peak by the direct south route for a second ascent. When we returned to camp, George was able to pack out and so we walked out that night arriving at the car at about 10 p.m. Such a climb as this in the Alaska winter demonstrates that climbing need not be confined to the summer months.

Gene Wescott

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