American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Alaska, Waseda University Mount McKinley Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Waseda University Mount McKinley Expedition. Don Sheldon flew the Japanese Waseda University group to the 8000-foot level on May 1 and 2. On May 6, from their 13,200-foot camp, they climbed the west buttress route as high as 14,100 feet and then crossed the snow plateau towards the western rim of the south face to choose a camp site at 14,600 feet. On May 8 they reconnoitered to 15,200 feet and found themselves on the route pioneered a year ago. (See A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, pp. 1–9.) Mantaro Kito, Syunsuke Imamura, Masayuso Teratani and Yosihiko Kikusima prepared the route along the upper part of the western rim to 17,000 feet, while the leader Takamasa Yosizaka and Akira Yamamoto carried camp to 16,000 feet on the west buttress to act in support of the others. On May 13 the latter two climbed in cloudy weather through Denali Pass to the top of the shoulder where they expected their companions to emerge from the western rim route. Not finding them, they continued to what they thought was the top; not until they were considerably lower did they see that they had merely ascended a lesser summit. The next day the four on the western rim climbed to 19,000 feet, where at 10 P.M. they bivouacked. They climbed to the top of the shoulder at 19,500 feet on the 15th but descended immediately through Denali Pass by the west buttress route, looking for the support party. This expedition made no further attempt.

Note: All dates refer to 1960 unless stated otherwise.

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