American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Alaska, Meiji University Mount McKinley Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1961

Meiji University Mount McKinley Expedition. The first of five expeditions to Mount McKinley was landed by Don Sheldon at about 8000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier from the 9th to the 12th of April. This was from Meiji University, Tokyo, Japan, and was led by Takeichi Katano. Other members of the party were Susuma Takahashi, Mimuro, Doi, Suzuki, Takagi, Matsuda, Kaji, Higashi, Kobayashi, Katayanagi, Fujita, Takahashi and Kanazawa. Stormy weather in April prevented their establishing Camp III at 14,700 feet before May 3. The next day they fixed a 1000-foot rope on the steep slope at about 16,000 feet. A reconnaissance by Fujita, Doi, Mimuro and Takahashi on May 5 was turned into an ascent of the South Peak, although the weather was very bad. Camp IV was established at 17,000 feet on May 9 and a tent for two set up on Denali Pass on May 12. From there, Takahashi and Koyayashi climbed the North Peak the next day. On May 14 this pair was joined by Katano, Kanazawa, Fijita, Higashi and Matsuda. The two struck their tent and carried it with them as all of them climbed to the top. This same pair spent the night on the summit. All had descended to 10,200 feet by May 16.

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