American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, U.S.S.R. and China, Pamirs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Hindu Kush. A small German expedition, led by Harald Biller and composed of his wife Alma, Theo Stöckinger and Hans Vogel, traveled by road from Europe to the Panshir valley in the Hindu Kush, north of Kabul. Continuing from the end of the road on foot, they ascended a side valley where on June 21 they made the first ascent of Dashtribat (17,225 feet) and on June 23 of more difficult Galamastan (17,400 feet). The group ascended the Panshir valley to its head and camped near the top of the Anjuman Pass. On July 27 they climbed a 17,000-foot peak which they named "Mörsamir.” This mountain, on which they found some extremely difficult rock and ice climbing, had been previously attempted by French, English and American climbers.

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