American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Kanjut Sar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Kanjut Sar. An Italian expedition under the leadership of Guido Monzino climbed Kanjut Sar (25,460 feet) by its southern side. This peak rises above a tributary of the Hispar Glacier. Eight guides from Valtournache, Jean Bich, Pierino and Pacifico Pession, Marcello and Leonardo Carrel, Camillo Pellissier, Lino Tamone and Marcello Lombard, took part, as well as Lorenzo Marimonti, Dr. Piero Nava and Dr. Paolo Cerretelli. After establishing three camps, a great snowfall in the first week of July drove them back to Base Camp. A porter fell on this retreat and died later. After the storm they continued to advance camps until Camp VI was established at about 23,000 feet. From there, on July 19, Jean Bich and Camillo Pellissier started for the summit. Bich had to return, exhausted and with frozen hands, but Pellissier continued up a long snow and ice couloir to the summit ridge, some 200 feet below the top, and thence climbed to the highest point.

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