American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Disteghil Sar. A Swiss expedition was unable to ascend Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet). The leader, Raymond Lambert, was accompanied by his wife Annette, Marcel Bize, Claude Asper, Charles Jaquet, Italo Gamboni, Dr. Robert Marty, Mario Grossi and André Kern. After reaching Base Camp (14,750 feet) at the foot of the south face, the threat of avalanches made them give up their plans of following the route up that face attempted by the British in 1957 (A.A.J., 1958, 11:1, p. 123). They decided on the longer but less dangerous southeast ridge. On June 12 they established Camp I in a snow col at 17,225 feet and the next day placed Camp II at 19,500 feet. Jaquet and Asper were slightly hurt by falling ice chunks between these camps. After reaching 23,000 feet on reconnaissance towards a proposed Camp IV and climbing a 21,325-foot peak near Camp III, on July 3 they were struck by bad weather. Camp III was evacuated on July 6 and Camp II two days later. When it became apparent that avalanches and other dangers would make the ascent too hazardous, the attempt was given up.

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