American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Batura Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Batura Muztagh. The Englishmen, Dr. Keith Warburton, leader, Harry Stephenson and Richard Knight and the Germans, Martin Günnel and Albert Hirschbichler, were last seen alive on June 23 in their Camp III (18,500 feet) in a difficult icefall above the Batura Glacier when they were left there by glaciologist John Edwards and Pakistani liaison officer Sherjan. The climbers were attempting the nameless 25,540-foot peak, the highest in the Batura Muztagh. Heavy snow and avalanches probably caused their deaths. Attempts to reach them made by Edwards and Sherjan in late July and afterwards by Pakistani Army units and the German expedition were thwarted by snow and avalanches. They found it impossible to return even to Camp III because of the condition of the icefall.

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