American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Dhaulagiri. Under the leadership of Fritz Moravec, an Austrian expedition did not succeed in climbing Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet), the highest yet unascended mountain in the world. The expedition reconnoitered for the first time the northeast ridge above the northeast col, a route which they feel is much safer than the much tried north face-west ridge route. The climbing difficulties are on ice rather than on rock and the upper portion of the mountain is obviously easier. From Base Camp (14,750 feet) on the Mayangdi Khola Glacier they bypassed an icefall to pitch Camp I (17,000 feet) half way up to the northeast col and Camp II (18,700 feet) on it. On April 21 they established Camp III (20,175 feet) and three days later Camp IV (21,325 feet) on the ridge. On April 29, while strolling near Camp II, Heinrich Roiss fell into a crevasse and died before he could be extricated. Despite the accident and although the weather was deteriorating, they continued upwards, but it was only on May 22 that they established Camp V (23,000 feet). On May 25 Karl Prein and Pasang Dawa Lama made a summit attempt from Camp VI (24,250 feet), but wind and weather prevented their climbing higher than 25,250 feet. Attempts on the two following days were equally unsuccessful. Other members of the party were Erich Vanis, Hans Retay, Othmar Kucera, Dr. Wilfred Wehle and Stefan Pauer.

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