American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Chilean-Japanese Expedition to the Central Cordillera

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Chilean-Japanese Expedition to the Central Cordillera. The Japanese group consists of three climbers, Otha, their leader, Tamba and Toyoda, all of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They are all dedicating themselves to becoming acquainted with the central zone of the Chilean Cordillera. The Academia Nacional de Alta Montaña has had to work out a plan divided in three parts. Fifteen Chilean climbers have been selected so that a group of five can accompany the Japanese to each of the three regions: the Valle del Yeso, the Ventisquero (Glacier) Cipreces and the Río Colorado (near Los Andes). The first part of the plan was carried out marvelously. The climbers made the first ascent of a 16,600-foot peak, which they called Punta Kobe, and they climbed Cerro Bello (17,060 feet) and Cerro Marmolejo (20,010 feet). This first phase lasted 20 days, after which all returned to Santiago. Preparations were complete for immediate departure to the Cipreces Glacier region. Each phase has an entirely separate organization down to the last detail. Although the Japanese merely shift from one group to the next, the rest, including personnel, region, transport, food, etc., is completely different. My job as overall leader is not inconsiderable! Last night (written March 14, 1960) the second group returned from the Cipreces region. They made the first ascents of Cerro Chile-Japón (14,925 feet), Coton (14,270 feet) and Coton Norte (13,810 feet). Up to now everything has turned out well. I hope that in the next phase, which departs on March 20 for the Río Colorado, they will continue to climb as successfully.

Bión González, Academia Nacional de Alta Montaña de Chile

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