South America, Peru, Italian Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota and the Cordillera Carabaya

Publication Year: 1960.

Italian Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota and the Cordillera Carabaya. Piero Ghiglione, now 76 years old, with the Peruvian porter, Fortunato Mautino climbed Sahuasiray (17,060 feet) on June 12 and made the first ascents of Huautinsuyo (16,400 feet) on June 8, Italia (16,400 feet) on June 9 and Huamanchoque (15,750 feet) two days later. All these peaks lie in the Cordillera Vilcanota, northeast of Calca. In the Cordillera Carabaya near Macusani, they made the first ascents of Chichicapac (17,400 feet according to Señor Morales but 18,400 feet from the figure given by Simon Clark, who was surveying in this region) on June 20 and Agapata (16,735 feet) on June 22. They climbed Chichicapac only a few days before the British Museum party made the second ascent. Ghiglione and his porter also climbed a number of mountains south of Aguas Calientes of less than 16,500 feet: Jatuncuchu, Borgomassero, Milano and Lomellini. The latter two were first ascents. The editor deplores giving foreign names to Andean peaks rather than Quechua or at least Spanish names.