American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Attempt on Jerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Attempt on Jerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our principal objectives were to climb the northern (21,759 feet) and the lower southern summits, but we were particularly anxious to ascend the latter. Our group, Agustín Velásquez, leader, Jorge Peredo, assistant leader, Javier Morales, León Vargas, Jesús Corona, Antonio Toussaint, Guillermo García, Jesús Labastida, Francisco Sánchez and I, left Lima for Chiquián on July 10. The next day was spent procuring four porters and nine pack animals. On the 12th we reached Llamac and on the next day continued on to Solterahanca (13,200 feet), an alpine lake where we established Base Camp. After a rest day we continued along the Argentine route to Camp I at 16,400 feet. (A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, p. 322. They apparently also followed the route of the Harvard party that made the first ascent in 1950. A.A.J., 1951, 8:1, pp. 22-32.—Editor.) On June 16 we placed Camp II at 18,000 feet. The next day four of us climbed the southwest ridge and from two camps made two attempts both of which failed for lack of pitons at 20,350 feet, one on a rock wall which faces south and the other on an 1000-foot high ice face below the south summit (21,375 feet). On June 19 we descended to Camp I and after two rest days made a three-day unsuccessful attempt to reach the south summit on the south flank. We descended to Base Camp on July 26. We climbed only two peaks, the west peak of Rasac (18,700 feet) on July 25 (Velásquez, Pereda and Corona) and an unnamed peak (16,425 feet) in the northern part of the range which we called Pico México on July 25 (Morales, Vargas, Labastida and García).

Juan Medina S., Club de Exploraciones de México

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