American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Austrian Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Austrian Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca. Under the leadership of Hannes Gasser, the Austrians entered the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca. Albert Zangerl came down with pneumonia and had to be evacuated to Lima. From a 16,750-foot camp, Gasser, Horst Pattis and a Peruvian porter, Donato Solano, climbed Tuco West (17,838 feet) on June 4. On June 10 Gasser and Solano ascended Raria South (18,145 feet). Moving their high camp to the Caullaraju group, on June 21 Gasser, Pattis, Klaus Keplinger and Fräulein Ulla Staudacher climbed Caullaraju West (18,383 feet). The next day Gasser, Pattis and Solano ascended Caullaraju North (17,815 feet). They changed their field of activity north to the Quebrada Yanganuco, where their attempt on Pisco failed at a bergschrund some 300 feet from the top. On July 14 Gasser and Pattis climbed Yanapaccha (17,914 feet) the only peak which was not a first ascent, while Keplinger, Fräulein Staudacher and the now recovered Zangerl climbed Yanapaccha North (17,650 feet).

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