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North America, Canada, British Columbia, Other Climbs in the Bugaboos

Other climbs in the Bugaboos. A party consisting of Ed Cooper, Art Gran, and Rome Sadowy ascended the north ice face of Anniversary Peak, probably for the first time. This 2000-foot crescent shaped ice slope rises from the Bugaboo Glacier tongue and ends some 300 feet east of the summit. It proved to be a comparatively easy climb, with the upper slopes reaching 45° and hard ice under the snow cover. Continuing the traverse to Howser Peak, we brought Conrad Cain’s first ascent signature down from the register.

For some five days in August, off and on because of inclement weather, Art Gran and Ed Cooper made an attempt on the east face of Bugaboo Spire. Close to 100 pitons were used. The attempt was abandoned when a bolt drill malfunctioned and no spare was available. It was estimated that at least 200 feet of very smooth climbing was ahead before the summit was assured. An entire night was spent in making the final descent of the face.

Edward Cooper, Seattle Mountaineers