American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Marmolata, Bugaboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Marmolata, Bugaboos. Two new routes were established last summer. On July 31, we had two ropes of three, four of the participants being from the Swiss Alpine Club contingent who came all the way from Geneva to attend the A.A.C. camp. The Swiss were A. Pachoud, J. Renaud, M. Jacot, and B. Soponoff; Miss Eleanor Hamilton and I completed the party. The route starts from the western snowy shoulder at the point where the usual descent of the west ridge ends. It rises diagonally up the south face to a point some 200 feet below and 40 feet west of the true summit, offering a series of slabs and cracks of moderate difficulty. The last 200 feet up a rib and an open chimney in the white rock band is grade four (alpine). Time for the rock section was four hours.

The other route follows the south-east buttress directly from the glacier. It was climbed by John Turner and party. They rate its difficulty as between the normal route on Snowpatch and the east ridge on Bugaboo, probably grade upper five (alpine). Though it looks very steep, Turner told me that the holds are excellent.

John F. Brett

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.