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North America, Canada, British Columbia, Mount Raleigh, Coast Range

Mount Raleigh, Coast Range. Werner Himmelsbach, John Owen, Jim Woodfield, and I of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club, flew from Campbell River to Icewall Lake, some 30 miles southeast of the head of Bute Inlet. This was a hazardous landing amid icebergs on a lake fed by an icefall of some 4000 feet. The party set out from Icewall Lake on July 25 for Mount Raleigh, some 30 miles distant across bush, rockwall and some 25 miles of glacial travel. The route was due east over the Filer Glacier, following first the west arm and then the east arm before skirting around the north face of Mount Gilbert to approach Mount Raleigh’s northeast face. From the advance camp at the base of Mount Gilbert it was decided to attempt Mount Raleigh via the upper reaches of the Styx Glacier with the aid of a bivouac. Because of fine weather conditions and very steep snow slopes, climbing after 10 o’clock was very dangerous, so aside from the bivouac, a second night was spent on the mountain on a ledge, without food or sleeping bags, 1000 feet from the summit. August 1 the summit was gained with some difficulty. The aneroid read 10,325 feet.

On the return, two more first ascents were made: an unnamed peak 9000 feet high which forms the northeast buttress of Icewall Lake and an 8600-foot peak to the south.

Ralph Hutchinson, British Columbia Mountaineering Club