American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Glencoe Spire, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Glencoe Spire, South Face. This route, which lies on the western portion of the south face, was climbed first by William Buckingham and Bea Vogel on July 28. From the base of the headwall below the black dike and Glencoe Spire and just to the east of the prominent waterfall, several hundred feet of black, loose chimneys were ascended to a small terrace on the south face. Two hundred and fifty feet of chimneys and slabs led directly toward the “prow” which can be seen from the Lower Saddle. The prow was avoided on the right and a steep ledge was then taken back to the left to the base of a 140-foot wall, which was climbed directly. Above this wall a series of cracks and chimneys led to the summit ridge in about three rope lengths; the summit was then but a scramble.

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