American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Sharkfin Tower from the West Notch

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Sharkfin Tower from the West Notch. A new route was made on June 20 on Sharkfin Tower, which lies between Forbidden and Boston Peaks. The first ascent had been made from the notch to the east, and the south face has also been climbed. This route is from the west notch. Our approach was from the south across the snowfields. We climbed two routes up the second buttress to the west of the prominent snow gully immediately below the tower. Leon Blumer, trip leader, led a party up the right or eastern side of the buttress, while Les McDonald’s group climbed up the left, beginning with a pendulum rappel from the foot of the other route. Here and on the west side of the tower, the rock slopes the wrong way, but it is solid and pleasant except where wet. Crossing the snow to the notch west of the tower, Leon led up the face, rather than the ridge, towards its right or southwest side. Then Les led right to the edge up cracks and slabs, which were fairly broken, but which slanted the wrong way below a shallow scoop which looked like a possible route straight up. However, he chose to go around the edge and for five or six feet over an overhang, where stirrups were used. We crossed a little chimney onto easy ledges over which we scrambled to the summit. About four pitons were used for safety and two for the stirrups.

Elfrida Pigou, Alpine Club of Canada

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