North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Little Tahoma, Northeast Ridge and Face

Publication Year: 1960.

Little Tahoma, Northeast Ridge and Face. A party composed of Bob McCall, Dave Mahre, and Lex Maxwell climbed this previously untried route on August 23. From a high camp at Summerland, they ascended Meany Crest and traversed the Fryingpan Glacier to the col between Little Tahoma and Peak 8849. From here the ascent was largely determined by the location of crevasses and the avoidance of rockfall channels. Steep ice frequently required the use of ice pitons for safety. The major cliff band at the 9500-foot level was passed on the east. The summit ridge was reached by passing the right skyline pinnacle on the north and ascending a difficult 80° foot rock pitch slightly east of the pinnacle. The summit ridge was traversed first on the south by walking about two rope lengths over loose shingle rock to a notch where the three succeeding pinnacles were climbed directly to reach the summit. The climb was primarily class 4, and required nine hours.

Lex Maxwell