American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, "Bashful Peak," Chugach Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

"Bashful Peak,” Chugach Range. "Bashful Peak” (about 8050 feet) was named unofficially by MCA members because it hides behind another tall mountain. On the evening of July 17, Helga Bading, Rodman Wilson, Paul Crews, Gregg Erickson, and I left the south end of Eklutna Lake (about 40 miles northeast of Anchorage) and packed up the Eklutna River for about five miles. After a 4 a.m. start, we left our packs on a dead glacier at 4000 feet and proceeded up the steep west ridge of "Bashful Peak.” In cloudy weather and a foot of new snow we climbed over many small peaks on the ridge. One rope climbed up a short face to find themselves on a knife edge covered with ice looking down a 4000-foot drop. Fog covered the mountain top and would just clear enough for us to see a higher top each time we climbed a peak. Suddenly it cleared and above us rose the peak of "Bashful” gorgeously outlined against blue skies. We climbed on. At 3:30 p.m. we reached the peak. The five of us barely fitted; it fell straight down on both sides. The descent to camp took us four and one-half hours.

John H. Johnston, Mountaineering Club of Alaska

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