Mount Redoubt, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range. Reconnaissance of Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet) showed the most feasible route to lead up a glacier on the northeast face. This glacier is the starting point of Redoubt River, which flows 15 miles east to Cook Inlet about 12 miles north of Polly Creek. Jon Gardey, Gene Wescott, Finley Kennel, and Charles Deehr were flown to the beach at Polly Creek on August 23. We hiked nine miles north along the beach towards Redoubt River, forced against the cliffs by a high tide. To reach the Redoubt River bar we traveled through almost impenetrable alder brush at a rate of one-quarter mile per hour. We continued up stream, making many harrowing crossings of the swollen river in intermittent rain. Hindered by fog and inadequate maps, we made our way through the complex of moraines and small glaciers on the fourth day to a rather large, flat glacier field situated at 4000 feet just below the northeast face. August 28 dawned clear and observation of the face revealed no complete route to the summit ridge. We headed off through the confusion of séracs and avalanche slopes, finding a way through or around all obstacles. All of us were surprised when we reached the summit ridge at 9500 feet. A steep ridge of hard snow led upwards and by 2 P.M. we became the first to stand on the summit. Snow conditions were excellent and made an otherwise difficult and dangerous route into a fascinating and intricate climb up the face.

The return to Polly Creek was made in beautiful weather on the seventh day after our arrival. Two flights in rather inclement weather by Frank Lambrecht brought the party to Anchorage, ending a very satisfying trip of nine days.

Charles Deehr, Jon Gardey, Gene Wescott, Alaska Alpine Club

Note: All dates refer to 1959 unless stated otherwise.