American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing


  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

Mazamas. The year began with the annual climbing school in April, when more than 400 basic-mountaineering students enrolled in the lectures and field trips under Jack Grauer’s direction. The Climbing Committee’s 1958 climbing schedule included about 50 climbs on Northwest peaks. On June 29 seven parties climbed Mount Hood, by seven different routes, all succeeding despite foul weather. In August 21 hardy souls climbed North, Middle, and South Sister in a single day.

On the annual outing about 50 members followed back-trails in Glacier Park in August. In July a large group of climbers and their families converged on Colter Bay Campground in the Tetons. From temporary high camps 34 climbers made 133 ascents on 11 different summits. Allison Logan, John Lovin, Paul Resta, and Mac Thompson made the first ascent of a variation of the northwest corner route of the Rock of Ages.

Dave Bohn, Dave Nelson, and Art Maki made a first ascent of the North Face of St. Peter’s Dome in the Columbia Gorge. Fred Ayres again joined a Peruvian expedition, which succeeded in climbing the South Ridge of Huascarán for the first time.

The Mazamas continued to give strong support to the Mountain Rescue Council of Oregon, with Dick Pooley serving as vice-president. The Council’s most noteworthy operation was the retrieval of the body of Robert Trahan from Jefferson Park Glacier on Mount Jefferson.

George Francisco succeeded Thaddis Gable as president, and Tom Gibbons succeeded Bill Oberteuffer as Climbing Committee chairman.

Jack Grauer, Vice-President

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