American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Outstanding among the numerous 1958 mountaineering accomplishments were an ascent of Mount McKinley and a 100-mile ski traverse of the Purcell and Selkirk ranges in British Columbia. Jake Breitenbach and Dave Dingman co-led the McKinley expedition, which culminated in the first ascent of both the North and South peaks in the same day. In the first ski traverse of the Selkirk-Purcell ranges, Bill Briggs, Bob French, Barry Corbet, and Sterling Neale started from the Bugaboos on June 1 and arrived at Glacier, B.C., on June 11. There were other noteworthy summer activities: Sterling Neale made a short trip into the Cariboo range of British Columbia; Stu Kaufman climbed in Norway; Carlos Plummer and Gerry Cabaniss spent the summer doing research for IGY on Ice Island T-3 in the Arctic Ocean; while Pete Farquhar and Barry Prather worked on the Juneau Ice Field in Alaska, where they made one first ascent; Tom Marshall climbed in the Wind Rivers. A number of members climbed in the Tetons, where Barry Corbet, Pete Sinclair, Gary Hemming, and Bill Buckingham made the first ascent of the South Face of Symmetry Spire, and Bill Briggs and Richard Sykes put the direct finish on the South Buttress of Mount Moran. Other members visited the Alps, the Cascades, Yosemite, and Castle Rock.

While rock climbing took the fore at home, ski mountaineering gained in popularity and, along with ice and expeditionary mountaineering practice, occupied the winter months. Other D.M.C. activities included rock-climbing classes for the physical education department, building a higher dynamic belay tower, leader-training courses, numerous lectures, publishing our annual Journal, and occasional building climbs on local architecture.

Notable among the Eastern climbs has been the opening of Bird Mountain near Rutland, Vermont. This mountain is rimmed by nearly vertical and overhanging rock up which we have placed numerous routes. The frequency of rotten rock requires extreme caution.

Charles C. Plummer, President

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.