American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Himalaya, Pakistan, Haramosh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

Haramosh. An Austrian expedition, led by Heinrich Roiss and including Rudi Ebner, Stefan Pauer, Dr. Franz Mandl, and Dr. Rudolf Hammerschlag, made the first ascent of Haramosh (24,270 feet), which had been attempted in 1957 by the Oxford University Expedition. The Austrians followed the British route. They placed Camp I (17,000 feet) near the Haramosh La by mid-June. Camp II (18,375 feet) was on the northeast ridge. They were still separated from the summit by the four peaks of what they called "Mani Peak" and by a long ridge beyond. It was from Mani Peak that Jillott and Emery fell in 1957. The climbing was so difficult that it took three of the Austrians four days to prepare with fixed ropes the last 650 feet, a very steep ice slope. Camp III was placed between the last two Mani summits at 20,350 feet. (All these altitudes seem to run about 1000 to 1500 feet lower than Captain Streather’s 1957 estimates.—Editor.) Although two climbers were ready for the summit try on June 14, they were forced back by storm, which kept them at Camp I until August 1. On August 3 Roiss, Pauer, and Mandl left Camp III, descended Mani Peak to 19,350 feet along a sharp ridge, ascended 1000 feet and continued along the difficult ridge to camp at 19,700 feet. On the fourth they descended to 19,000 feet, started up the ridge proper of Haramosh at 20,650 feet and reached the 22,650-foot shoulder at 9:45 a.m. after a midnight start. Despite cornices and monsoon clouds that obscured all other peaks but Haramosh itself, they arrived at the summit at 2 p.m. They returned to Camp IV at 7:30 p.m. The descent took three days since they managed to climb only to the next camp each day in frightfully stormy weather.

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