American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Himalaya, Nepal, Ama Dablam

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

Ama Dablam. A British-Italian Himalayan expedition spent two months in the Everest region in October and November, 1958. During October an attempt was made on Ama Dablam (22,800 feet), by its southwest ridge, from base camp at 16,000 feet and two other camps on the mountain. After extremely difficult climbing the attempt was abandoned at about 20,000 feet due to great technical difficulties of steep rock and ice. Following this a journey was made around the mountain and all ridges and possible routes examined. We found no feasible way of climbing the mountain; with the weather becoming increasingly cold, all idea of climbing this very difficult peak was given up. We then went up the Imja valley to the southwest of Everest to explore its upper reaches and whilst there made a reconnaissance of Lhotse II, the fifth highest mountain top in the world. Although so late in the year and so extremely cold that no attempt could be made on this peak, a feasible route was found and our efforts will be useful to a future expedition. Near there we climbed a fine mountain of 20,300 feet. Various other exploratory journeys were made around Everest. Part of the work of the expedition was the collection of botanical specimens, over 100 plants and seed types being brought home.

Alfred Gregory, Alpine Club

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