South America, Peru, Cordillera Apolobamba

Publication Year: 1959.

Cordillera Apolobamba. A second Italian expedition was active in the little known Cordillera Apolobamba, which lies northeast of Lake Titicaca between Peru and Bolivia. These members of the Milan section of the Italian Alpine Club were Carlo Frigieri, Romano Merendi, Camillo Zamboni, Gianluigi Sterna, Andrea Oggioni, Dr. Humberto Mellano, and Pietri Magni. They established a base camp on Lago Calijón on at 16,300 feet. On June 4 they climbed Nevado Ritipata (18,045 feet) and another peak they called “La Sega,” The Saw (17,881 feet). On June 11 they climbed Ananea (19,751 feet). On June 15 they made the first ascent of Calijón (19,948 feet) by the northeast face, and the next day they climbed an unnamed glacial peak which they called Angelo Vanelli (18,504 feet). On July 1 they climbed a peak of about 19,600 feet which they named Giogio Chavez. Other first ascents reported by them include Nevado Club Alpino Italiano (19,062 feet) on June 28, Ichicollo (18,865 feet), Palomani Chica (19,292 feet), Palomani Grande (20,079 feet), and Punta Donegani (19,357 feet) on June 28, Cima Fior de Roccia (19,718 feet) on June 30, Salluyo, in Bolivia (20,506 feet) on July 3, Nevado Cittá di Monza (19,554 feet), Pico Villasanta (19,554 feet), and Pico della Tre Regazze (19,554 feet) on July 5, Nevado Angelicum (19,688 feet), and Nevado Chupiorca (20,670 feet) on July 11, and Nevado Cittá di Desio (19,029 feet).

The altitudes given above are those reported by the Italians. They are consistently 600 to 900 feet too high on peaks whose official altitudes are known to the editor. The official altitudes of regularly named peaks are: Ritipata (17,300 feet), Ananea (19,166 feet), Calijón (19,107 feet), Palomani (19,423 feet), Palomani Cunca (Chica) (18,200 feet), and Chaupi Orco (19,830 feet). Although the Italians give all of these as first ascents, two of them apparently were not. According to Friedrich Ahlfeld, in Die Alpen, 1932, page 132, a Bolivian Army captain had already climbed Palomani prior to that time. Chaupi Orco, incorrectly spelled by the Italians, was climbed by the Germans the year before. (A.A.J., 1958, 11:1, p. 102.)