South America, Argentina, Nevado de Famatina

Publication Year: 1959.

Nevado de Famatina. The second ascent of the Nevado de Famatina (20,506 feet), in La Rioja province, was made on November 24, 1958 by Dr. Luis Vita, Elio and Raúl Vergara, Dr. Marcelo Pensa, Aurelio Castelli, and Miguel Conte, of the Club Andino Córdoba. The first ascent took place in 1947.

Pirámides Range. Anselmo Weber, Mario Piccoli, and José Luis Ronrouge climbed the highest needle of the Pirámides range, west of Esquel and some 200 miles south of their home in Bariloche. They named it “Torre Slavko” in memory of a friend, Slavko Bavdaz, who was killed a month before. The range, situated between Lakes Futalaufquen and Krüger, on the north, and Lakes 1, 2, and 3, on the south, had previously repulsed climbers from here and Buenos Aires. It consists of five rock-towers, the highest (Torre Slavko) being at the southern end and about 8000 feet high. The climbers took five days for the approach from Lago Krüger, the reconnaissance, and the climb. They found a feasible route up the southeast glacier and bivouacked on December 28 in an ice cave. It dawned cloudy on the 29th but after it cleared, about 11 a.m., they made the climb and arrived at the summit at 6:20 p.m. Weber calls the climb moderately difficult. It had to be done free as it was impossible to place pitons because of the nature of the rock. They descended by the same route, reaching the bivouac spot at 1 a.m.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche