North America, Canada, Mummery Group, Canadian Rockies

Publication Year: 1959.

Mummery Group, Canadian Rockies. A number of first ascents were made from the Alpine Club of Canada Camp. “Lorenzen” is really a long ridge with a number of broken towers. The two highest pinnacles at the west end of the ridge were climbed on July 23 by Dave Fish, David Brown, Derrick Hawkins, and Vitus Germann via the south face. The three peaks south of the Mummerys were called, from north to south, M1, M2, and M3. M1 was climbed, without encountering difficulties, from the south by Walley Joyce, Bob Adams, S. Spinkova, Irene Ross, and Elfrida Pigou on July 26. M2 was climbed on July 28 by Roger Neave, Dave Fish, John Owen, Elfrida Pigou, Francis Chamberlain, and S. Spinkova. A tower on this peak was very difficult, but after it was crossed, the main summit was easily climbed. The approach to the peak was the same as to M1, bypassing the latter. M3 was climbed via an alder-slide and a steep rib which runs more or less from base to summit on the southeast side of the peak. Descent was down the right side of a steep glacier on the north face of the peak. This climb was made by Adolf Bitterlich, John Owen, and Elfrida Pigou on July 23. Another route on M3 was made from the high camp on Mummery to the M3—Mummery Col and via snow slopes to the summit.

R. C. Hind