AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Wyoming, Northeast Face of Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range

Northeast Face of Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range. On August 4 Bill Byrd, Roland Wyatt, and David Dingman left the Tetons for the Wind River Range on a one-week “guides’ holiday.” As we proceeded north along the Green River from the Green River Lakes Camp Ground on the Pinedale side of the range with no particular objective in mind, we grew more and more impressed by the northeast face of Squaretop Mountain (11,679 feet), which rises precipitously for 3000 feet above the valley floor. The next morning the 5 a.m. sun revealed a chimney in the more southerly half of the face which extends upwards through two-thirds of the wall. After climbing the wooded slopes to the base of the chimney, we started on the face at 9 o’clock, but it took us until nightfall to reach the top of the chimney. The climbing was mostly 5th class over wonderful rock with an occasional 6th class pitch. We spent a wonderful alpine evening on a small ledge at the top of the chimney. Without food or water, we climbed the remaining 600 feet the next morning by what seemed to be the easiest way. It still took us four hours of good 5th and 6th class climbing to reach the summit at 9 a.m. An easy walk-off descent was made on the northwest side of the mountain.

David L. Dingman