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North America, United States, Wyoming, Peaks Along the Cascade-Paintbrush Divide, Tetons

Peaks Along the Cascade-Paintbrush Divide, Tetons. Early on June 21 Bob and Peggy West, Bob Keyes, and Bill Buckingham left Jenny Lake for unclimbed Peak 11,102. From Hanging Canyon we climbed steep snow slopes to the summit of the Jaw. Since a direct descent to the west did not look inviting, we descended to the notch between the Grinders and the Jaw, where some steep and exposed scrambling brought us to a wide ledge, which we followed back to the ridge leading westward. The ridge continued on in a great succession of gendarmes. We soon reached another unclimbed summit (“Window Peak,” ca. 11,100 feet), which lay between us and Peak 11,102. Bob West and Bob Keyes descended towards Cascade Canyon while Peggy and I continued on. After descending easily to the west from “Window Peak” and skirting a number of large towers on the south, we climbed the east ridge of Peak 11,102 without difficulty. The summit was trisected by two small notches with the westernmost point the highest. We descended rapidly, mostly en glissade, into Cascade Canyon. At Jenny Lake we found that our companions had not yet returned. Indeed, a series of cliff bands had blocked their descent into Cascade Canyon. They had climbed all the way back to the ridge and descended steep snow into Paintbrush Canyon, reaching Jenny Lake several hours later.

William J. Buckingham