American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Disappointment Peak, South Ridges

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

Disappointment Peak, South Ridges. By the end of the summer of 1958 there were more than a dozen different routes on the spectacular ridges which, from the south edge of the summit plateau of Disappointment Peak, plunge at a very high angle into Garnet Canyon. These climbs have in general been very difficult, but they belong more to the art of rock climbing than mountaineering. During the past summer John Gill and Yvon Chouinard, with other climbers, systematically climbed very nearly every route to be found. Some of these proved to be among the most difficult climbs yet completed in the Park, insofar as technical rock difficulty is concerned. Usually the summit of the peak was not attained, the descent beginning when the plateau was reached.

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