American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, North Face of North Early Winter Spire

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

North Face of North Early Winter Spire. This new route, the second on the imposing North Early Winter Spire, is almost on the opposite side from the original climb of 1951. It is an excellent 400-foot climb on good granite. On August 31 Joe Hieb and Fred Beckey climbed over the col north of the spire from the west heather slopes, swung around 100 feet and took a pitch of 5 th class rock up to the left of a leaning pedestal. Here the climbing became artificial. Joe led, climbing mostly on slings up thin wall-cracks on the very steep face above the pedestal. A bolt was used for an anchor atop this pitch. From here the difficulties soon ended with an easy gully that became a chimney leading to the summit. Though technically difficult, it was the best rock we have encountered in the Liberty Bell group.

Fred Beckey

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