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North America, United States, Washington, Jupiter Rock, Tumwater Canyon

Jupiter Rock, Tumwater Canyon. Late in April Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and David Collins did the first ascent of this prominent pyramid-shaped granite face, naming it for the planet which shone brightly on our bivouac. We approached the bottom of the face by rowboat up and across the Wenatchee River and by climbing, roped, in a gulley high above and to the right of the creek leading to Waterfall Clumn. After an easy scramble up a rib to a point beneath the center of the face, we had some most interesting rock-climbing, using a few direct-aid slings, a pendulum traverse and a number of safety pitons, to gain an easier couloir in the center of the face. Rappeling got us to the easier slopes under the face just before dark, but we then decided on a bivouac rather than try the pitch between us and the creek by flashlight.

David Collins