American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, Southern Picket Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, Southern Picket Range. Making the weekend of October 5 a three-day affair, Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and David Collins took the circuitous ridge route into Terror Creek Cirque for a second try at the unclimbed east ridge of Inspiration Peak. We cut steps to reach the wall under the col between Inspiration and the nearest of the five sharp pinnacles to the east. It was a comparatively easy scramble to the col and for a couple of rope-lengths up the ridge. The rest of the ridge to the lower east summit, with a necessary traverse right and up a short overhang, provided some wondrous diversion on good granite. A few safety pitons were required. The climb to the higher peak along the usually solid ridge was also very pleasant. This could become the classic ascent in this range when it is made more accessible by trail.

David Collins

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