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North America, United States, Washington, East Peak, Black Butte near Mount Baker

East Peak, Black Butte near Mount Baker. On May 4, after deciding that rotten rock ruled out an attempt on the unclimbed Roman Nose (northwest arête) of Mount Baker, Fergus O’Conner and Edward Cooper turned to the unclimbed ice wall rising between the lower and the main East Peak of Black Butte, easily visible from the regular route up Mount Baker as one passes right under it. It proved unexpectedly easy, steepness being the only problem, since the fairly soft snow provides excellent bucket-holds. The ascent would probably be impossible after June 1 in most years.

F. Edward Cooper, Seattle Mountaineers