American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Mount Torment-Forbidden Peak Traverse, Cascades

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1959

Mount Torment-Forbidden Peak Traverse, Cascades. The mile and a half long, truly Alpine ridge running from Mount Torment (8200 feet) to Forbidden Peak (8900 feet) had long been an objective of mine. On July 26, 1958 Buck Seller and Edward Cooper ascended the southwest and south face of Mount Torment. To gain our ridge, we had to rappel and partially descend the southeast face. The very narrow, alpine ridgeoffered for the most part moderate but slow class 4 climbing. Occasional traverses were made on the north side to bypass particularly rough obstacles, but we visited all the major points on the ridge, leaving cairns on two of them. When darkness fell, we made a bivouac on a ledge halfway to Forbidden Peak. After a somewhat uncomfortable night we continued on, often encountering knife-edged portions with appalling drops on both the north and the south but no climbing that could be genuinely termed difficult. We finally ascended the west ridge of Forbidden Peak and descended by the northeast face. Plans to continue the traverse to Boston and Sahale peaks were abandoned because of the extremely rotten and dangerous rock on the ridge leading to Boston Peak.

F. Edward Cooper, Seattle Mountaineers

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