American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

The Mountaineers

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

The Mountaineers. Climbing activity in Washington continued to increase during 1957. This fact stressed the importance of educational and safety programs of The Mountaineers. More than 400 took the climbing courses in Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett. An additional 75 took the camping and hiking course that was designed for those who go into the mountains, but who do not climb. Several aspects of the climbing courses were altered. The hard snow and the rescue methods practices were held in late summer. Work continued on the new climbing text. This must be completed soon, because the last copies of the 1948 handbook have been sold. A movie on snow techniques was completed and will be used in the 1958 courses.

Sixty-three experience climbs and six advanced climbs were scheduled. Franz Mohling led a party of advanced climbers on a first ascent up the north ridge of Mount Formidable near Cascade Pass. Non-technical (ropes not required) climbing was very popular. More than 450 participated in 29 non-technical climbs and seven snowshoe trips.

Two two-weeks outings were held this year. The popular and spectacular trip in the proposed Glacier Peak Wilderness Area was repeated on the summer outing. The Campcrafters held their outing in the Canadian Rockies.

Four new routes on Mount Rainier were climbed last summer, which are reported in the climbing notes of this Journal. Mountaineers Fred Beckey and Herb Staley then joined John Rupley, Dr. Thomas Hornbein, Harry King, and Wes Grande to make a first ascent on Mount Huntington in Alaska. A first ascent up the east ridge of Mount Logan, Yukon Territory, was made by Mountaineer Dave Collins with Cecil Ouellette, Yakima, Washington, and Californians Gil Roberts, Kermith Ross, and Don Monk. (See article.)

The year 1957 will be remembered as a bad year for accidents. Eighteen accidents, with six fatalities, occurred in the State of Washington. The figures are eloquent and underscore again that it is impossible to put enough emphasis on safety.

Paul W. Wiseman, President

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