American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

A.A.C., Cascade Section

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

A.A.C., Cascade Section. Despite 1957’s undependable weather in the Northwest, several members completed noteworthy climbs during the summer. In particular, three routes on Mount Rainier were ascended for the first time. A party that included Fred Beckey, Don Claunch, and John Rupley climbed the Mowich Face. Pete Schoening and Dee Molenaar climbed the headwall of the Wilson Glacier. George Senner and party climbed the Kautz Cleaver, which separates Kautz and Success glaciers.

Dick McGowan again managed the guide concession at Mount Rainier. Elvin (Bob) Johnson and Willi Unsoeld summered in the Tetons. Ed LaChapelle has returned to the Northwest for a few months to take charge of the IGY station on Mount Olympus. Many members participated in various rescues in this area, which were directed by the Mountain Rescue Council.

Three Section meetings were held. Early in the year Jürg Marmet and his wife visited us, and he presented his outstanding account of the second ascent of Mount Everest. In the spring Bradford Washburn clearly outlined for our group facts which point to the improbability that Dr. Cook climbed Mount McKinley, which he claimed to have done in 1906. In October over 80 members and guests from Washington and Oregon attended the annual meeting. Dave Collins showed excellent slides of Mount Logan, and Bob Forbes narrated a film on Antarctica. Pete Schoening was named the new chairman of the Cascade Section.

The group lost an old friend and member when Rex Gibson, president of the Alpine Club of Canada, perished on Mount Howson.

George R. Senner

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