Disteghil Sar. The team consisted of four other British—David Briggs, Dennis Davis, John Cunningham, Keith Warburton—and one Italian, Piero Ghiglione, under my leadership. We went during May, June, and July 1957 to make a reconnaissance of Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet). Base Camp was established on the Kunyang Glacier at 15,000 feet at the foot of the south face of the mountain. After several reconnaissances we found a route on the south side which led to a col west of the summit. The climbing was on a steep face, and our activities were hampered by very bad weather and dangerous snow conditions. The danger of avalanches was great anywhere off the true route, although this was generally protected from them. Even so, our Camp I was eventually destroyed by an avalanche, fortunately when nobody was in it. We made four camps on the mountain and reached just under 22,000 feet. Finally we had to turn back when it became apparent that the weather was continuing to be so bad that the dangerous snow conditions could not improve this year. We had only eight good days in two months. Lack of porters, because there were no men with any experience in that area, meant that all the carrying had to be done by members of the expedition.

Alfred Gregory, Alpine Club