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Asia, Pakistan, Haramosh

Haramosh. The aim of the Oxford University South Karakoram Expedition was to explore and survey the approaches to Haramosh (24,270 feet). There had been no previous expeditions to this mountain. The party consisted of Tony Streather (leader), of the Royal Military Academy, Sandhurst, with Oxford graduates and undergraduates Bernard Jillott (originator and organizer of the expedition and deputy leader), John Emery (in charge of health), medical student, Rae Culbert, on scholarship from New Zealand, and Scott Hamilton, on scholarship from U. S. A. The team assembled in Rawalpindi by the 29th of July and flew to Gilgit on the 30th. This start so late in the season was necessary because of term times at Oxford and Sandhurst. Porters were enlisted at Gilgit and the party moved by jeep and on foot to establish camp near the Mani Glacier to the north of Haramosh, a march of only three days. The next two weeks were spent exploring the north and west approaches to the mountain. No possible route was ever found. Attention was then turned to a long ridge running to the summit from the east; this crossed a subsidiary peak of about 22,000 feet. Bad weather at the end of August and in early September slowed up operations, but by the 14th of September four camps had been established and stocked. On the 15th Jillott, Emery, Culbert, and Streather climbed from Camp IV to a point on the ridge near the subsidiary peak. They could see the rest of the route to the summit about four miles away. This looked impassable, due to the broken snow formations and the steepness of the ridge. There was no time to go farther, but our reconnaissance was complete. Just then Jillott and Emery, who were climbing together, got onto a bad piece of snow which avalanched under them. They fell about a thousand feet, but were not seriously hurt. Streather and Culbert spent the next three days and nights trying to rescue them, but in the end Jillott and Emery perished. Culbert and Streather managed to struggle down to Camp III to join Hamilton there. Several days later they reached Base Camp. Culbert had been severely frostbitten and Streather to a lesser extent. They reached Base Camp on the 24th of September and were helped to Gilgit by Hunza porters.

H. R. A. Streather, Alpine Club