Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV

Publication Year: 1958.

Annapurna IV. Our honorary member, Dr. R. Charles Evans, with Dennis P. Davis, supported by only four Sherpas, made the second ascent of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet) on May 5, 1957 from a Camp IV at 23,000 feet. Dr. Evans had been with Tilman’s party which made a previous attempt in 1950. Japanese expeditions failed in 1952 and 1953. The Germans Steinmetz, Wellenkamp, and Biller made the first ascent in 1955. Bad weather, which dogged them continually throughout the expedition, delayed their attempt on Annapurna II (26,041 feet) until mid-May. They set out over the shoulder of Annapurna IV from the same Camp IV on May 16 with Sherpas and equipment for a fifth camp, which would have been pitched on the long ridge between the two peaks. Their progress was so slow and the drop on the ridge so great that they felt the attempt too risky in the unsettled weather and returned that same day.