American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himalaya, Parbati Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

Parbati Valley. Snow lay so deep last spring that the Yorkshire Himalayan Expedition on April 26 established its base camp only at Pulga. Thence they attempted to penetrate the upper Parbati, Tos, and Tichu valleys, but deep snow and bad weather thwarted them. They finally ascended the Parbati to the Dibibokri on May 15. Nearby, D. Hunter and A. MacLean ascended a difficult 15,874-foot peak. W. Cowley (leader), R. Hirst, D. Laughton, and A. E. Evennett climbed the east peak (17,500 feet) of Basunag (17,690 feet). In mid June part of the group crossed the still snow-choked Rohtang Pass to the Chandra valley and eventually penetrated the Sissu glacier basin but without making ascents. Mr. Cowley reports the following of this region, which is interesting for a modest expedition where political permission is not difficult: "The whole area south of the Parbati, practically untouched by climbers, contains many peaks between 17,000 and 20,000 feet which would be well worth climbing, many of the greatest difficulty. Two valleys, the Tanang Khol and the Tundabhuj Khol, appear to give access to the best of the area. A vast icefield, from which rise attractive and difficult peaks of 18,000 to 19,000 feet, lies in the triangle between the Parbati, the Tos-Tichu, and the Dibibokri. This can probably be best approached up snow slopes from the junction of the Tos and Tichu. A side valley from Tos village appears to lead up to the Manikaran spires and interesting peaks between them and Deo Tibba and Indrasau. The vast level icefield from which Indrasau rises can also probably be reached from farther up the Tos, but with little prospect of climbing Indrasau. These three regions offer attractive fields for a small expedition and are easy of access in a normal season.”

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