American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Clachnacudainn Range, Mount Revelstoke National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

Clachnacudainn Range, Mount Revelstoke National Park, British Columbia. Around and near the Clachnacudainn Snowfield the small granite peaks of the Clachnacudainn Range rise to an altitude of more than 8600 feet. Although outlying peaks had been climbed previously, the principal summits around the snowfield had not been attempted until our party, Arthur and Claudia Maki and Robert and Peggy West, visited the area in August 1957. In addition, as a member of the "support party” in Base Camp, we had David West, age seven months.

From Base Camp at Eva Lake, 4½ miles by trail from the top of Mount Revelstoke, we worked out a route of approach to the Clachnacudainn Snowfield, crossing three high passes on the way. Using this approach we then made the first ascent of Mount Coursier (8690 feet), highest summit of the range. On the same day we climbed the 8660-foot peak immediately to the southeast, the first and highest peak of a long north-south ridge of rock towers which rise just east of Clachnacudainn Creek, and which form the headwall of the snowfield.

The two other principal summits of the group are 8600-foot peaks which guard the snowfield to the north and east. We reached the summit of the east peak, after crossing the Clachnacudainn Snowfield, in eight hours from Eva Lake. On another day we climbed the north peak via the long west ridge, which provided the best rock climbing of the trip. Ascents of Clachnacudainn West” (7948 feet) and other minor summits west of Clachnacudainn Creek were also made.

Robert West

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.