American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, South Ridge of Teepe's Pillar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

South Ridge of Teepe’s Pillar. Willi and Jolene Unsoeld and Norman Lee followed on August 10, 1957 the extreme southeast ridge of the triangular south face, using small ledges which overhang the face. The third lead, a very difficult pitch, was the crux of the climb. The most interesting portion of the ascent was the first four pitches; the remainder was enjoyable but not difficult.

Variation on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton. The crest of the east ridge was reached August 11, 1957 by William Cropper and Jim Langford by ascending the subsidiary ridge which leads from Teepe’s Glacier to the gendarme immediately east of the Second Tower. This ridge forms the eastern edge of the hanging couloir high on the southeast face of the Second Tower. The main obstacle of this ridge, an 800-foot nearly vertical section of gray rock, was passed by means of a ledge slanting very steeply up from west to east across the ridge crest. The remainder of the ridge was climbed on its east side until the notch between the gendarme and the Second Tower was reached, after which the usual east ridge route was followed to the summit.

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