A Climber's Guide to the Tetons

Publication Year: 1957.

A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range, by Leigh Ortenburger. Illustrated by Eldon Dye. San Francisco: The Sierra Club, 1956. ix, 159 pages; ills.; maps and diagrams. Price $3.00.

In this long-awaited guide to the Wyoming Tetons, Leigh Ortenburger has done a superlative job of accurately labeling and describing the intricacies of Teton routes and variations of routes, while generally avoiding the danger of lapsing into the confusing minutiae of a hand-hold-by- hand-hold account. The author’s own intimate knowledge of the range, gained during several seasons there as a professional guide, has been reinforced by four years of intensive search for climbing records in periodicals, as well as by personal questioning of the climbers who pioneered new routes. The result is a guidebook whose accuracy in technical and historical detail is unequalled, in this country at least.

Eldon Dye’s detailed drawings of the routes provide a clarifying accompaniment to the text. The photographs are a striking introduction to jagged Teton grandeur, and offer, in addition, a fleeting glimpse of the outstanding pioneers of the range. Whether one is enjoying Teton climbs for the first time, or is revisiting them after many years of familiarity, the interest of the climbs is bound to be greatly enhanced by having at hand this compact little book of Leigh Ortenburger’s.

William Unsoeld