Ratang-Parbati Expedition, Spiti. We explored and photo-surveyed a hitherto unmapped area of over 400 square miles, crossing ten virgin passes varying in height from 17,800 to 21,000 feet, one across the Main Himalayan Divide itself. Fifteen new glaciers were discovered, and a peak of 22,500 to 23,000 feet was seen for the first time in an area where the highest peak for 50 miles was thought to be only 21,760 feet. We climbed altogether ten virgin peaks, six over 21,000 feet. Nearly 300 pounds of ammonite fossils were collected from the Spiti shales for Dr. W. S. Arkell of the Sedgwick Museum, Cambridge.

The expedition, Garry W. Walker, Pran Nath (an Indian Security officer), and Peter F. Holmes, left Manali June 12, crossed the Rohtang La, and established a temporary base camp at Shigri, 13,000 feet, June 17. We also had the services of Rikzen, a Ladakhi porter and first-rate mountaineer. A party of four then pushed up into the Karcha Basin, which had never been done before. In spite of very poor weather, we discovered and crossed five new passes in the next three days.

On June 20, Rikzen and Holmes made the first ascent of a 19,300-foot peak in terrible weather. A second peak, 18,900 feet, was climbed the next day by the same party. An attempt on “The Lion,” 20,000 feet, was frustrated by continuing storms and deep snow. The party returned to Shigri on the 22nd. The whole Expedition then walked over Kunzum La, ca. 15,000 feet, and down the Spiti Valley. The next fortnight was spent collecting ammonites, making friends with the local people of Spiti, visiting a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, and meeting The Nono, the temporal ruler of Spiti.

The Ratang Gorge, first penetrated in 1955 by a party led by Holmes, was forced in three days with the help of 22 coolies, and on July 9 a permanent base camp was established at 14,500 feet. On the 10th an advanced base camp was established at 16,000 feet, and on succeeding days camps I, II, and III were established at 18,000 feet, 19,500 feet, and 21,000 feet, respectively. On July 14 two peaks near Camp III, of 21,050 feet and 21,100 feet, were climbed for the first time by a party of six. On July 15 a virgin peak of 21,400 feet was climbed by Walker, Pran Nath, Rikzen, and Holmes. The weather continued bad, so an attempt on the nearby 21,760-foot peak was abandoned. On July 19 Rikzen and I climbed virgin peaks of 21,200 feet and 21,410 feet from a new camp at 20,000 feet. On the same day we became the first mountaineers ever to penetrate into the Gyundi Valley. Because of heavy snow and Rikzen’s damaged hand, a retreat was then made to Base Camp. On July 21 Walker and I, from Base Camp at 14,500 feet, climbed a new peak of 19,500 feet. We also crossed two important new passes of over 19,000 feet. On July 25 Rikzen and Holmes climbed a peak of 19,700 feet from a camp at 16,000 feet. The following day the same pair climbed the highest and by far the hardest peak successfully attempted. Starting from a camp at 18,500 feet, continuous difficulties and extreme exposure were encountered for nearly 3000 feet. The summit was 21,500 feet. Happily, the weather was perfect for almost the first time on the expedition and a view was obtained right into Tibet, Bashahr, Kulu, Lahul, and Ladakh—perhaps 70 miles in every direction.

Abandoning all but the most essential equipment and food, the expedition then began the return over the Main Himalayan Divide. The first pass was crossed with difficulty July 30. The second was reached August 4, but because of unexpected difficulties (bad weather, a 3000-foot precipice to negotiate with heavy loads), the crossing and descent took much longer than had been anticipated. For two days the fate of the whole expedition hung in balance; we were now without food and the weather had become impossible. The situation was saved by the appearance of a wild goat who was forthwith despatched. On August 14 we returned to Manali, exhausted and happy.

Peter F. Holmes, Alpine Club